We are woken at 7.30 am by our Chinese companions getting up and having their pot noodle breakfast. The overnight train ride has been bumpy and jerky and so we have had a disturbed night’s sleep. The Chinese sleeper cars aren’t as modern as either the Russian or Mongolian equivalents, but comfortable enough. However, using squatty toilets on a moving train is an interesting experience! We arrive in Chongqing at 2pm and are met by someone from the hostel. We travel to the area we are staying by public bus – a very dilapidated and rust-ridden one – but the 20 minute trip only costs 4.50 Yuan (37p) for the three of us. Our room has huge windows opening onto a superb view of the river, and is the biggest room we’ve had so far. It would do a 3* hotel proud and costs less than £11 a night!
The scenery from the train is mountainous and dramatic and we pass through numerous tunnels, in fact the whole line is a feat of engineering. But not content with that another line is currently under construction alongside involving the most enormous pillars to take the elevated sections across the mountain valleys. Presumably part of the current programme of infra-structure expansion designed to open up the country. As we near Chongqing the hillsides are covered with terraced rice paddies and small villages.
The train is very clean and the toilet is spotless. The carriage attendant sweeps out our carriage twice during the journey. Although we have a sneaking suspicion that the bed linen is used more than once, as the attendant refolds it and places on the top bunk as we are leaving the train! Chongqing station is almost empty – none of the bustle and crowds of Beijing and Xi’an. What a pleasant surprise. The people on the bus look at us in disbelief as we squeeze all our luggage to the back of the bus. Is it ‘cos we foreign?
The old village is an historic area which is protected by the government. It is also a tourist destination and the streets are full of craft shops, restaurants, street vendors and the bustle of crowds. Is this Chongqing’s Covent Garden? But despite this, or maybe because of it, the area is attractive and interesting and definitely a complete change from Xi’an and Beijing – just what we need. The hostel is in a superb location just by the river front with its outside cafes and restaurants and we have a view to die for. The staff are extremely friendly and helpful, there is a bar with soft seating, pool table and free wifi!! What more do you need?
After settling in, having a shower and something to eat, we take a walk around the evening streets. China doesn’t operate summertime, so it gets dark around 6.30 pm and by the time we get out many of the shops are closing. But we take in the relaxed atmosphere and wander along the elevated river promenade which is not far from the hostel. I should imagine it’s quite ugly from the river, but it makes for a pleasant walk and it is possible to hire various kinds of two- and four-wheel cycles which trundle backwards and forwards along its length. We come across people lighting huge paper lanterns which drift eerily into the night sky – a romantic gesture for the one you love.