We arrive in Hue just after 8am. It’s been an uncomfortable journey, to say the least. The bus is kitted out with bunk beds in three rows down the length of he bus and across the rear. These beds aren’t completely flat, but recline slightly. This design in conjunction with the motion of the bus means it’s hard to avoid sliding forward, and being squashed up against the end of the bed. They’re hard, too. But, surprisingly, despite the discomfort, the tinny music and the numerous stops to let people on and off which required the lights to be turned on several times, we feel quite refreshed at the end of the journey. Arriving in Hue is pandemonium; once again we aren’t dropped at the bus station, but outside a hotel and there are several touts trying to solicit business for taxis and other hotels. Fortunately we don’t have to deal with all that hassle; our hotel is arranging a pick-up and soon we and our baggage are rescued from the melee and on our way. Initial impressions of Hue are of a much quieter and laid back city – just what we need, a bit less bustle. Our hotel is on a side street in the ‘tourist district’ and apart from the occasional cyclo, there is no traffic – bliss! In fact, there is a lot less traffic here generally; hardly any cars, just bicycles, motor bikes and scooters. Crossing the road is a much more relaxed affair. It’s sunny and warm and we take a stroll along the river. We have a delicious lunch on the verandah of floating restaurant on the Perfume River, followed by a trip on a dragon boat.
A dragon boat, as the name suggests, have dragon heads and tails on the bow and stern respectively of a traditional sampan and the sides are brightly painted to give the appearance of a colourful dragon gliding through the water. We have a boat to ourselves for 80000 Dong for an hour. Once we are aboard, the boatman’s wife, who waited for us outside the restaurant whilst we ate lunch, wastes no time in trying to sell to us. One after another she produces cards, postcards, pictures printed on silk and finally a silk Vietnamese trouser and top two-piece! The trip takes us passed a village of fishing junks moored along the river bank. It is hard to imagine just how basic the living conditions of these people must be. Small canoe-like boats are the main mode of transport and even young children are skilled at manoeuvring them as they perch squatting at very tip of the stern. Heavily-laden junks ply the river, sitting so low in the water that it seems a sneeze might see them submerged!