All of which are quite reasonable apart from the ban on three-quarter length shorts – why these are not allowed when knee-length skirts are acceptable is somewhat puzzling. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the surrounding buildings are breathtakingly beautiful and alone make the visit to Bangkok worthwhile. The most stunning is the temple itself (Wat Pra Kaew) which houses the revered Emerald Buddha, its exterior gilded and covered in glass mosaics which gleam and sparkle in the bright sunlight. The compact complex of buildings is enclosed by cloisters decorated with 178 mural panels depicting scenes from the Ramakien epic. Six pairs of magnificent demon giants, each of differing design, guard he entrance gates to the temple. Crammed into the confines of this area are several other buildings, stupae, prangs (a tiered cylindrical spire), pavillions and mythical creatures. These include Royal Pantheon, the stunning Pra Viharn Yod decorated with porcelain floral designs and the Pra Sri Ratana Chedi, a bell-shaped pagoda covered in gold mosaic. A real feast for the eyes and senses. Within the same grounds is the Grand Palace, the former royal residence, now used by King Rama IX for ceremonial occasions, his current residence being Chitlada Palace in the north of the city. There are several magnificent building that make up the Grand Palace complex but only the interiors of Throne Hall and Dusit Maha Prasat Hall are open to the public.
After lunch in typical open-air street cafe by the ferry pier we wander along the road that runs between the Grand Palace and the river. All along this stretch there are new and second-hand goods laid out on the pavement for sale. Eventually we happen upon another ferry pier. A number of ferry lines serve the Chao Phraya River providing an efficient water-based transport system on a north-south axis to the western side of the city. We stop for refreshment in a riverside cafe before taking the cross river ferry to visit Wat Arun on the opposite site of the river. The central prang towers above the surrounding area and climbing the almost perpendicular steps up to the third level provides a panoramic view of this mainly low rise city.
Back across the river we catch a ferry up river alighting within walking distance of our hostel. The ferry is packed with people but this is definitely a more pleasant way to get around this part of the city. There is plenty of river traffic and a surprising amount of water weed floating on the surface giving the river a rather rural feel.
In the evening we take a taxi to Pat Pong Road in the heart of Bangkok’s red light district. The area is hardly buzzing and empty pole dancing bars and venues offering sex shows seem to be struggling to attract the punters. Even Khao San Road holds more interest than this!