The journey between Christchurch to Oamuru is flat and quite bland compared to the spectacular scenery we have become used to. We have decided to stay overnight in Oamuru for two reasons: there are colonies of the rare yellow-eyed penguins and the tiny blue penguins; and secondly the town has an historic centre containing a large number of 19th century limestone buildings
Penguins are nocturnally active on land. They leave the colongy before sunrise each morning and return at dusk each night and there are viewing areas for both the blue and yellow-eyed penguins on the edge of town. We decide to go to see the yellow eyed penguins which are supposed to come ashore around 7.30pm. But not tonight! We wait on the cliff top overlooking the beach where the colony resides in the wind and drizzle for almost an hour and not a single penguin comes ashore. Finally as we are leaving we spot the head of one penguin hiding in the bushes. Apparently, we later discover it is moulting season and the penguins stay ashore all day. Shy creatures they tend to stay hidden in the undergrowth particularly if they see or hear humans about.
We drive through part of the historic district which has a strangely incongruous feel; impressive and beautiful as they are, the buildings just don’t seem to belong.