We have a long drive ahead of us today – from Dunedin along the west coast and up to Te Anau in Fiordland on the west side of the island. A trip of about 425 km and there is lots to see on the way as we take the coastal route between Dunedin and Invercargill which meanders through the Catlins – an area of rolling hills, sheep, native forests and rocky bays which stretches from Kaka Point in the north to Fortrose in the south. Our first stop is at Nugget Point a dramatic outcrop jutting into the sea with a short coastal walk with far-reaching views up and down the coast. In fact at one point it is so narrow it’s possible to look down on sea on either side of the path. At the end of the point there is a colony of seals and sea lions basking on the rocks. The weather is gloriously sunny and warm – without a cloud in the sky. It’s just a pleasure to look out over the several small rocky islets that extend from the point and are encircled by the white rings of surf as the sea gently breaks around them. Long strands of kelp – it thrives in these coastal waters – is pulled back and forth in the gentle swell.
Our next stop is Jack’s Blow Hole followed by lunch on the edge of the beach at Jack’s Bay. Jack’s Blow Hole is a 30-minute walk from Jack’s Bay over farmland and cliff tops. The views from the cliffs are magnificent, but the blow hole is disappointing, though no doubt it is much more dramatic when the sea is wilder. The blow hole itself is a huge gash in a farmer’s field about 200 metres from the sea. A small viewing platform gives a partial view through the surrounding bush of the sea crashing in below.
Further along the coast we stop at Florence Hill lookout for a stunning view of Tautuku beach before motoring on to Slope Point, the southern most point of the South Island. This is not at all the bleak landscape you might imagine – quite the contrary it is full of spectacular views of rolling hills and here and there clumps of windswept trees, their windward sides grey and lifeless, their leeward side green and alive.
Our last stop is Te Waewae Bay – an impressively long beach littered with driftwood. A mist of sea spray hanging above the breakers. It is 150 km from here to Te Anau and we must kick on if we are to get there by early evening. As we head north from Invercargill we start to see glimpses of the peaks of Fiordland in the distance. As we approach Te Anau rolling grasslands give way to rugged, snow-capped peaks and deep glacial valleys. Te Anau itself is situated in the most stunning setting set against a backdrop of mountains on the edge of Te Anau lake – the largest in the South Island and the second largest in New Zealand after lake Taupo. The town is immaculately manicured, but remarkably soulless despite it’s beautiful setting. It is mainly hotels, motels, B&Bs and holiday parks serving the huge influx of tourists that come here for the trips to Milford Sound and the tramping, kayaking and other activities that abound in the area.