The Whanganui River winds its way from the mountains to Whanganui City on the Tasman Sea. It flows through hills, valleys and lowland forest forming the heart of the Whanganui National Park. The surrounding land is formed of soft sandstone layered with mudstone which has been eroded by the river to form sharp ridges, deep gorges, waterfalls and sheer mudstone cliffs. Over this dramatic landscape has grown a broadleafed forest of native trees, ferns and plants. Birds are in abundance as their song testifies and the hum of bees can be heard as we paddle down river. This is a beautiful and untouched wilderness …almost – there is a road that runs along side some stretches of the river which is only evident from the noise of the occasional car.
The meandering river is just right balance of flat slow water and rapids to add interest. We meet two other canoes along the way – a couple of young Americans from Colorado and Connecticut and a man and his young son. We make a couple of stops along the way for a ‘brew’ and to visit a lavender farm. The latter a short climb up the bank and nestled under the folds of the hills. We stop to have our picnic lunch before enjoying a drink on the verandah of the cafe soaking up the sun as the scent of lavender wafts through the air and the butterflies flit among the flowers. An idyllic spot.
We arrive at the small riverside campsite around 5.15pm having begun to wonder whether we had missed it somewhere along the way. The map of the river isn’t proving very useful as there are few distinguishing landmarks for orientation. The man and his son have arrived just ahead of us so there will be four of us camping here tonight . The site is basic; there is running water (which you can drink at your own risk according to the sign), a thunderbox which is littered with dead flies (not very pleasant) and a covered shelter for preparing food. We set up tent overlooking river and cook one pot curry on a small gas burner. It’s a glorious sunny evening, and the birdsong and gurgling of the rapids are interrupted only by the very occasional car as it makes its way along the unsurfaced road that traces the river high up on the opposite bank.