The circular design of the centre represents a warradjan (pig-nosed turtle). The centre has a large and impressive display developed by the Bininj (local aborigines) which provide a detailed picture of the aboriginal culture and history in Kakadu including their relations with the Balinda (European settlers). It is a heart-rending but ultimately optimistic portrayal.
With none of the wetland walks open we leave Cooinda by late morning heading for Jabiru which is the main township in Kakadu with such delights as a supermarket, post office, library, swimming pool and a few other shops, but offers little by way of other attractions other than a visitors centre an an Aboriginal arts and crafts gallery.
We stop enroute to Jabiru to climb up to the Murrai Lookout on the top of Mount Cahill. There is fabulous 360 panorama over the woodland as far west as the Arnhem Land escarpment and the vast unspoilt reaches of this land. Three English people are following behind; two are living in Melbourne and are from Gloucestershire and Essex. They are about to embark on a road trip to Melbourne; having flown up to Darwin they are collecting a car from friends who have done the trip in the opposite direction.
After organising a pitch for the night we drive on to Ubirr to see the rock art and watch the sunset from the rocky lookout there. But first, we take a look at the East Alligator River.- a misnomer if ever there was one, as there are no alligators here. This is the habitat of the estuarine crocodile or ‘saltie’ which can grow up to 2m long and have been known to attack those careless enough to stand too close to the water’s edge as well as the even more foolhardy who venture in to swim. There have been a couple of news stories since we arrive of people being attacked and killed. But that doesn’t stop a half-a-dozen or so young aborigines from have a fun time splashing about in the water upstream. Obviously there are none about today!
The ‘saltie’ is becoming a major problem in the Darwin area; numbers are increasing and are making their way further and further inland. There are very few places in Kakadu where it’s possible to swim safely and even these depend on the park authorities clearing them, which means they are not completely safe.. There is government proposal to cull all crocs within a 50 mile radius of Darwin and this is the subject of some debate at the moment.
Ubirr is on the edge of a magnificent sandstone escarpment and is the gateway to Arnhem Land and 91,000 sq km of undeveloped natural landscapes located in the middle of Australia’s northern coast. It is one of the last great unspoiled areas in the world and its small population is predominantly Aborginal. Access to Arnhem Land is strictly controlled and requires a permit to enter as well as 4wd. So it’s off the itinerary for us. But from the outcrop at Ubirr we can enjoy the most stunning 360 views of this vast and ruggedly beautiful landscape. To the east the stone country of the Arnhem Land sandstone escarpment and plateau and to the west the vibrant, lush green of the Nadab flood plains; all the more special for being bathed in the warm glow of the evening sunlight
It is swelteringly hot, still around 33 degrees or so. A man was heard to complain that the cold showers weren’t cold enough; and it’s true they are luke warm – there is no need for hot water to have a decent shower.
The campsite at Jabiru is huge and almost empty. There appear to be no camp ‘rules’ in Australia or at least none that are observed; loud music accompanied by bongos blarts from a group of tents close by from 10 pm and a family Easter egg hunt is underway by 6am. Quite a different kettle of fish from NZ where lights are out by 10 and everyone is a quiet as mice! In contrast the bar closes at 10pm (which probably accounts for the timing of the music) and there is no indoor kitchen; the flying insects and mozzies are a nuisance and bed seems comparatively attractive. Our body clocks are starting to shift as we turn in about 9.30pm and rise just after dawn! There is a lot to be said for this as the early morning is the best time of day, with its dappled light, lack of insects and cool air.