At the heart of the old city of Yogya is the Kraton or palace of the Sultans and centre of a walled city. According to Lonely Planet more than 25,000 people live in the maze of alleyways that make up greater kraton compound – a city within a city. The current sultan still resides in the innermost group of buildings, but much of the one kilometer square royal palace is open to the public. One of the finest examples of Javanese palace architecture, it is a complex of elegant pavilions, halls and shady courtyards. There is a small museum displaying a motley collection of faded photos, clothes and effects of the current sultan, peeling royal portraits, as well as gifts of china and glass presented by foreign governments and a rather odd inexplicable display of commonplace kitchen implements. Elderly retainers in traditional dress with sheathed swords tucked into their sarongs wander the compound smiling and posing for photographs. Some renovation work is in progress and one of the pavilions has recently been restored to its former glory with a striking black ceiling and red and gold detailing.
After lunch we brave the throng on Jalan Maliboro, side stepping the stalls and street vendors to reach Pasar Beringharjo, Yogya’s main market. Its two floors are closely packed with stalls selling an enormous selection of batik cap (stamped batik) and cheap clothes; row upon row heaving with people and hung to the ceilings with a seemingly endless collection of shirts, sarongs, bags and the like. The choice seems too impossibly vast to contemplate.
We have tickets for the Ramayana Ballet this evening which we have purchased through the losmen. There are two Ramayana performances offered in Yogya; one in the centre of the city and the other 17km way at Prambanan. We think we have purchased tickets to the former, but it soon becomes apparent that our driver is taking us out of town and 45 minutes later we arrive at the theatre and restaurant complex at Prambanan. It is a superb setting against the backdrop of the floodlight Prambanan Hindu temples, the largest of which towers 47m high behind the stage. There is also a superb view of the temples from the outdoor restaurant which serves a (mediocre) buffet dinner on an immaculately tended lawn directly in front of the temple complex.
The Ramayana Ballet is a famed Javanese traditional dance drama which tells the story of Rama (the human incarnation of Lord Shiva) and his wife, Shinta who is abducted and subsequently found and rescued by Hanuman the monkey god and Sugriwa the white monkey general. Once a month at full moon the story is enacted over four consecutive nights and by all accounts is a spectacular performance involving a huge cast and full gamelan orchestra. However, we have opted for the condensed, 2-hour version which is a much scaled-down and abridged affair for the more dilettante audience. The theatre is far from full and we have the best front row tickets which come with goody bags and padded seats.
The performance is beautiful to look at – graceful and controlled with some exquisite costumes and accomplished lead dancers. Disappointingly, the overall effect is marred by poorly choreographed and out of sync performances by few of the minor members of the cast, some of whom seem distinctly under-rehearsed and out of step. There is a thrilling climax at the end of the first act when the white monkey general sets fire to the enemy village and the heat as the resulting blaze sweeps across the stage can be felt in the auditorium. After that, the short second act is something of an let-down!
A case of all fur coat, unfortunately and not a patch on the performances we saw in Ubud.
< ?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = “urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office” /?>