Jaisalmer is definitely an appealing and enchanting city and here we are beginning to get into the rhythm of India at last, so we have decided to stay another couple of nights at least. People here still want us to come into their shops but the sales patter is much more laid back It is possible to saunter the streets with the minimum of hassle. There are long conversations to be had over a cup of chai and at the end of it all it’s possible to leave without ill-feeling having bought nothing. Bartering is a way of life here, although it is not clear to what extent it is driven by tourists expectations. Shopkeepers know that foreigners want to get a discount so they inflate their prices accordingly. A game of bluff and double bluff ensues and if all goes well, the tourist gets a purchase at a discounted price and the shopkeeper makes a greater or lesser profit depending on the tenacity and shrewdness of the buyer. So everyone is happy.
We return to collect the altered kurtah which now fits perfectly and are subject to some friendly banter and a half-serious attempt to sell us more clothes. Surely we would like a turban? so easy to tie from an enormous length of cloth. At which point we get a demonstration of how simple it is to assemble. Doesn’t it look magnificent on Andy? What a wonderful present for someone back home! We resist the temptation and come away with nothing more than a couple of photos leaving amidst laughter and smiles.
We are getting used to the fact that the ATMs and the electricity work sporadically, and we have a hunt on today to find an ATM that is working as our cash is running low. There are three ATMs in Jaisalmer and the first, in Ghandi Chowk, is down. We eventually find a working ATM a bit further out of the centre with a queue of people out of the door. Indians think nothing of queue jumping particularly where foreigners are concerned and so it’s necessary to stand up close to the person in front if you don’t want to lose your place. Eventually with cash in our pocket we go in search of somewhere to have lunch and come upon Shanti Restaurant, a small place on the fort wall with a fabulous view out over the desert. We are just preparing to order when our friend of yesterday, Desert, appears to greet us. Word has reached him that we are close by his shop and he has come for no other reason than to say hello.
Later as we are browsing a shop a man invites us to look round his 800-year-old haveli. The house has been in his family for 10 generations and is in need of serious and no doubt very expensive, restoration. He is attempting to raise money to fund the work from donations and by selling artifacts (most probably reproductions, although it is hard to tell). The tour is a fascinating insight into some o the architectural features: a pair of horses heads either side of the door lintel symbolise power and strength; a carving of Ganesh over the centre of the doorway, good luck. Door frames are low for a number of reasons: so that those entering must bow as a sign of respect; to keep the room cool; to restrict entry in times of attack and make defence easier.
Historically, water has always been a scarce resource within the city and every drop of water was collected and recycled four times: the same water being used for showering, washing laundry, for cleaning and watering plants, for instance. Even today tap water in the fort is available for only half-an-hour each day (and some days not at all) so people living here must draw as much water as they need for a day or two during that half-an-hour and keep it stored in urns. It rather brings home, just how much we take for granted.
We end our meander round the ort with a drink on the roof terrace of a small hotel that is right next to the magnificent Jain temples and almost within touching distance of the impressively carved domes. It’s not often that such a spectacular roof can be viewed at such close quarters.