Today, we are shopping; making up for all the times we have denied ourselves souvenirs in other countries because of lack of space and the over-riding desire not to add to the weight of our luggage. Now, with only three weeks to the end of our trip, we feel we can indulge ourselves in the wonderful array of handicrafts that Rajasthan has to offer. As we walk down the narrow alleys of the fort, popping into this shop and that along the way, our progress is monitored by shopkeepers further down the lane and when we reach them they expect us to step inside and spend a little money with them too.
Shopping is a pleasant, sociable affair. Business is generally done over a cup of chai and once the shopkeeper has determined what you might be interested in, or even not interested in, it doesn’t seem to matter, an array of items will be brought down from the shelves and paraded before you in a variety of sizes and colours until the floor is stewn with numerous samples of scarves, tablecloths, shawls, bedspreads or whatever. It takes a certain measure of determination to walk out without buying because the shopkeepers are a very tenacious breed and will cajole and negotiate in an effort to arrive at a mutually acceptable price even as you walk down the street.
Side stepping the cows can be a little tricky too as a single cow can obstruct the narrow laneways leaving little room to squeeze by and whilst we are now quite used to walking alongside them in the street, pushing them out of the way needs a little more courage particularly in the face of their horns. Fotunately, there is usually someone coming in the opposite direction to give them a hefty slap on the backside which invariably shifts the beasts.
We have dinner on the roof terrace of the hotel and not for the first time we admire the magical view of the fort lit up against the night sky. From here we can see the complete sweep of one side of the fort with its ramparts, bastions and old havelis bathed in a warm glow. The night-time view is quite special; made even more so when the full moon rises from behind it.