Flower sellers
We seem to have spent most of our time in Udaipur shopping for presents – for ourselves as well as others. India is a treasure trove of gorgeous handicrafts which are hard to resist. But the need to keep within the airline baggage restrictions and the limited space in the luggage has constrained us and made finding suitable mementos quite a challenge, particularly as we are already carrying two bedspreads purchased in Jodhpur! But today we have found our last present – for Tim who, surprisingly, has proved the most difficult to buy for. In the process we have acquired two additional bags to accommodate them all and since leaving Jaisalmer have been travelling with six pieces of luggage.
We pick up the kurtah, ordered yesterday, from the tailor and the fit is perfect. Pity I didn’t have more made! But it is too late now, as we are leaving Udaipur for Bundi this evening.
Jagish Temple detail
We still have time enough to visit the Jagdish Temple, the largest temple in Udaipur. This Hindu temple is located in the heart of the city and we have passed it every day since we arrived, each time intending to look round and for various reasons not doing so. Situated 150m north of the Bara Pol entrance to the City Palace, this spectacular example of Indo-Aryan architecture towers over its surroundings. Built in 1651 by Maharana Jagat Singh who ruled Udaipur from 1628-53 the temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his incarnation as Jagannath. The three-storey building is approached by a monumental staircase with two huge stone elephants sitting either side of the entrance. There is a service in progress when we arrive and the temple is so crowded that it is impossible to enter, but we stand at the portico with the over-spill of worshippers to listen to the chanting and to steal a glimpse into the interior.
The spire of the main temple is 79 feet high and dominates the skyline of Udaipur. This spire along with the rest of the exterior is festooned with sumptuous sculptures of dancers, elephants, horsemen, musicians and erotic poses from the karma sutra. As with all religious buildings, shoes have to be taken off on entering the temple precinct and we hop from one piece of shade to another to save our feet from the uncomfortable heat of the marble floor.
Jagdish Temple, saucy freize
After lunch we have just about enough time to take a half-an-hour boat ride on the lake. It is something we should have done when we had more time because it only from the water that it is possible to appreciate the real beauty of this city with its magnificent waterfront buildings and variety of ghats.
Boys having fun
And we don’t have time to stop and explore the small palace on Jagmandir Island with its eight life-size elephants standing guard.
Palace on Jagmandir Island
Built by Marharaja Karan Singh in 1620 it is said that Shah Jahan derived ideas for aspects of the Taj Mahal when he stayed here in 1623-24. But time is running on and we have to get back to pick up our luggage, pay our bill and get to the train station. It’s not until we are on our way to the station that we realise that we have miscalculated and our train leaves 40 minutes later than we thought; we could have visited Jagmandir after all! Ah well…
Girl in festive costume
At the railway station we are immediately approached by a porter who collects up our luggage on his large trolley, hurries away to check the platform and deposits us and our luggage in exactly the right spot for boarding our carriage. It is 5.15 pm and the train is already in the station even though it is not due to depart until 6.30 pm. The doors are locked and boarding isn’t until 6 o’clock so we settle down on our rucksacks. While we wait a brazen stray dog sneaks up and before we know it has cocked a leg and watered our luggage! Fortunately, only the leather luggage is affected and we have some tissues and water with us so we are able to clean them up without any ill effects or unpleasant, lingering smells.
Waiting for the train
We arrive in Bundi around 11pm, only 15 minutes late which is good by Indian standards. By which time everyone else has long since retired to bed and the carriage is in complete darkness.