Galle, Sri Lanka’s historic fourth largest town, is situated just a few kilometres round the coast from Unawatuna. This historic town has been variously in the hands of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, but it was the Dutch who built the magnificent 36-hectare fort on the promentory from 1663 and whose architectural heritage lingers on in this UNESCO site. The fort area is home to about 400 houses, commercial and government buildings including the law courts, solicitors offices, police headquarters and other administrative departments, museums, hotels, guest houses, cafes and boutique shops selling Sri Lankan arts and crafts. Although many of the buildings are run down some have been lovingly restored and there is a project in progress to block pave the roads. An oasis of calm after the clammer of most Sri Lankan town centres; this little corner of Europe is very differentt from any other Sri Lankan town we’ve visited. The serene ambience which pervades its quiet streets and the unique cultural heritage make it a fascinating place to wander round. Outside the fort walls it’s a different story; immediately we are thrust back into the hurly burly of the ‘new’ town with it’s jumble of ugly buildings, noise and traffic.
We are staying at Mrs Wijenayake’s Guest House at 65 Lighthouse Street, just a few paces from the fort walls and the sea beyond. The house she has here is enormous taking up a large plot on the corner of New Lane (which is in the throes of being paved with bricks). It is a mere stone’s throw from the mosque which is sure to provide an early wake up call in the morning. The house itself is a maze or corridors and our room is on the first floor off a narrow shared balcony. Adequate and moderately clean for 1500 rupees.
We have lunch at India Hut – their logo is strikingly similar to another, much better-known ‘Hut’ – on the first floor balcony of a lovely historic building overlooking the fort walls. The place is empty, although not for long, and we are soon in the midst of a raucous family of Sri Lankans, who fill all the tables and spill over onto ours! I feel rather sorry for the lone child draws the short straw and has share a table with two English strangers.