We are picked up in Koh Tao in a huge four wheel drive pick-up and we stow all our gear and ourselves in the back. We are perched precariously on the bench seats, which are at the same level as the sides of the truck and only one has a rail, thinking this is going to be an interesting experience.. As is the normal Thai way, we stop several times en route (for the driver has to do some shopping). Andy and I are asked to sit in the cab and several other people are picked up before we start our journey out to Black Tip Dive Resort. After a couple of kilometres the paved road runs out and we’re glad we moved into the cab as the truck rolls, lurches and bumps over the deep ruts and potholes, and negotiates the steep inclines and descents along the next 2 kilometres of this narrow and rugged dirt road. To say we are in an out-of-the-way spot would be an understatement, although our destination – the rocky Tanote Bay on the east coast – is wonderfully picturesque and has a wide sandy beach. The bungalows are set amongst topical gardens on the gently sloping hillside above the bay. There are two or three other resorts on the hillside around, although none quite so inconspicuously nestled in the vegetation as Black Tip.
Black Tip Dive Resort, as it’s name might suggest, is primarily geared up for divers (Matt is a keen diver) and little concession appears to be made to those who might want to sunbathe and relax when not either diving or snorkelling. The pool (we chose this resort because Dan doesn’t like swimming in the sea) is closed between 1 and 5pm for diving lessons and there are no loungers or parasols either on the poolside or the beach. On the plus sidewe have two good-size clean bungalows adjoined by a shared bathroom. Both cabins have a window that takes up most of one wall and gives a wonderful sense of openness and space as well as views into the garden, whilst the sound of waves breaking on the beach below resonates in the background.
In the evening the wind is up and it starts to rain quite heavily.