New Zealand South Island day 31 – Fox Glacier

Fox would be an unprepossessing village (population of 258) if it were not for the fact that it is tucked into the rainforest-clad foothills of the Southern Alps and offers stunning views of snow-capped peaks including Mount Cook. It is also the gateway to the Fox Glacier, which at 13 km is the longest glacier in the Westland National Park. It also comes closer to sea level (only 250m above) than any other temperate region glacier in the world and descends through sub-temperate rain forest to boot. It’s other distinguishing feature is the speed at which it travels, covering up to 4 metres a day which is ten times the speed of other valley glaciers around the world. All due to the funnel-like shape of the glacial valley and the huge neve, the snow accumulation area at the top of the glacier. Fox Glacier’s neve is 36 sq k, bigger than the whole of Christchurch city. It’s a miserable morning: grey and raining heavily, but undeterred, we book onto a guided walk on the glacier leaving at 2.30pm . We are kitted out with rain gear and the heaviest and most uncomfortable walking boots imaginable. After a short coach journey in an old Bedford bus we start our trek with a gentle walk up the glacial river valley over moraine left behind when the glacier retreated to it’s present position. Huge boulders are strewn everywhere as well as massive chunks of ice which are the remains of a recent collapse of the terminal face shedding 60 tonnes of ice. Water, made milky grey with ground rock, gushes from the base of the glacier to form a fast-flowing river. As we get up close to the terminal face it starts to hit home just how massive this glacier is – reaching a height of 2,800m it dwarfs structures such as the Eiffel Tower. The terminal face is far too high to attempt to climb and we make away up through the rain forest alongside the glacier to a more accessible point where we can climb onto the ice quite easily. The climb through the forest involves 700 steps and negotiating some rather narrow cliff-side paths and sheer drops. We don crampons and with ice poles for extra stability we follow in our guides foot-steps as he cuts out steps up and onto the top of the glacier. It’s quite an incredible experience – stepping over crevasses climbing over the hilly terrain; and the view from the terminal face down the valley is superb. All the while melt water is making it’s way down through deep holes and crevasses. Had our first conference call using Skype involving Mum, Val and Peter – quite easy to set up but we couldn’t always maintain a clear connection. As a new convert to Skype – this was his first call – Peter was most impressed to be able to not only conference call but also speak to us in New Zealand.