Weather overcast and cool. Today we went to visit a typical Siberian village about two hours drive north-east of Yekaterinburg. We went with our own personal driver and guide, both of whom spoke good English and were happy to talk to us about life in Russia today compared Soviet era. Our trip included a visit to the village museum which had been founded by a local man in 1905; a tour of a 300-year-old traditionally build log house; the small, recently built wooden church which replaced the a much grander stone one reduced to ruins during the Soviet era; the agricultural museum; a performance of Siberian folk music by local village women; a ride round the village streets on a horse-drawn flat bed carriage; and lunch. A fascinating day out.
All but a few of the buildings in the village are made of logs in the traditional manner without nails and with corrugated iron roofs. The latter not original of course, but a later development which has replaced the use of over-lapping wood planks. The village has a population of about 5,000 although you wouldn’t think so to look at it. The predominant colour is the gray of well-weathered wood, but all the houses are decorated with coloured fretwork round the windows and under the eaves. The village also boasts a kindergarten and secondary school, several shops and a cottage hospital as well as numerous strategically-placed satellite dishes. It is a strange mix of a bygone age and the modern day.
The museum contains a collection of items donated by villagers all of which can be traced back to named individuals – clocks, samovars, linen, calendars back to 1947 and so on. The curator we are told is a very dynamic individual who has done a lot to generate sponsorship for the museum and promote it across the local area. So much so that 18 similar museums have sprung up in villages around the region. His enthusiasm is clearly evident when he explains the background to some of the more significant exhibits.
This was followed by a ‘tour’ (I use the word loosely) of a 300-year-old one-room wooden house which would have been home to as many as 18 people: grandparents, their children and their wives, and grandchildren. It seems inconceivable that such a small house could accommodate so many people harmoniously. The house is built directly onto the ground – no foundations – and its site was only decided once the position of the well had been determined. It has to be at least 10 meters from the well. Once the base of the house is laid out the stove is built. Only then is the rest of the house completed.
There are ruins of what must have been a beautiful church which was blown up by the Soviets. Apparently many churches were destroyed in this way during the communist era when religion was out of favour. Since 2000 many seem to have been rebuilt and this village is hoping to find sponsorship to restore their church. Maybe Roman Abramovich could help instead of spending money on Chelski – what do think, Dan?
In the meantime, the villagers have recently built a small wooden church over the site of a spring. The latter comes up in a central well in the church itself and the holy water flows out along a trough hewn from a log and known as the ‘river of love’ because newly-weds traditionally come here to drink the water together. It then flows on through the communal wash house (no longer used).
Then back to the museum for a performance of folk songs by local women, all of whom are dressed in traditional costume and are accompanied by an accordionist. The first song seems a bit solemn and wooden and turns out to be some kind of homage to the motherland. But is soon followed by folk songs that a delivered with passion and humour. For the last song all the foreign guests are invited to get up and take part in a Siberian dance. Not quite what we had bargained for!
Had good, but simple lunch and tried some local brew which was a little like whisky but with are more aromatic flavour.
The day was rounded off by a quick visit to the agricultural museum and a walk down to the river.
On our return to the hotel we discover there is some confusion over our departure date and in fact we are leaving tonight at 3.30 am to catch a train to Irkutz and not tomorrow night as we thought. So we pack up our things and do some food shopping for the jourrney. Met up with Jennifer and Bryce for dinner at a local restaurant. It is possible to eat quite cheaply here if you choose the self-service canteen style places, particularly if you are a vegetarian. My meal only cost £1.50!