Rain, rain, rain and more rain! We hire bikes today, adn despite what the weather may have in store set off find the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc which is some 5km south of Hue. It is not long before the ponchos are required and rain is the order of the day. All the time spent fascinating over the driving techniques on display in Hanoi are finally paying off as we negotiate the traffic with a degree of aplomb. This is easier than it looks! We find the Temple of Nam Giao without too much difficulty as it is about 2km along on the road out of Hue. This temple was used by the Nguyen Emperors for sacrifical ceremonies for peace and good weather and was once the most important religious site in Vietnam. Without a decent map, no road signs and confusing instructions from local Vietnamese using a mixture of sign language and broken English, finding the Emperor’s tomb proves more of a challenge. But that’s all part of the fun and the additional 6km is good exercise as well as an opportunity to see more of this beautiful countryside. After stopping for lunch we eventually find Tu Duc’s tomb and spend the remainder of the afternoon exploring the site.
During our detour we stop for lunch in a rather smart restaurant which seems incongruously situated in a small Vietnamese village. All soon becomes clear though, this is the lunch stop for the tour buses bringing tourists to see the several tombs that are to be found in the area. Nonetheless we decide to stop since we are wet and in need of sustenance. We avail ourselves of the decent toilets – always a luxury here – and have a very good lunch.
Tu Duc’s tomb turns out to be much more than a mausoleum. This complex includes a lake, gardens and the various buildings which made up the imperial residence. The mausoleums are in a poor state of repair, the walls are black and moss-covered, although the residences are in much better condition. There is a break in the rain and we are able to spend a pleasant a couple of hours looking around. Apparently Tu Duc was a diminutive 1.53m and very fussy eater. He was also very aware of his failings and there is self-critical autobiography engraved on a large stele erected in the complex. It is to him we owe the imperial cuisine for which Hue is renowned.