We fly to Luang Prabang in Laos today leaving Siem Reap at the very civilised hour of 1.30pm and arriving around 3pm. Our first impression is not a good one as we try to withdraw some Kip from the airport ATM only for our card to be returned but no money is forthcoming. Trying to get any assistance proves impossible; no-one seems to know who is in charge and the staff show little inclination to help. We give up and hope that our account won’t be debited. There is a ticketing system and a standard fare for the jumbos from the airport to the city. Jumbos are in effect mini lorries with parallel bench seats in the back – not the most comfortable way to travel. Our guest house is in a sleepy lane that leads down to the Mekong and we have a small, but quiet room at the back over-looking a courtyard-style garden. The room is basic but adequate and any minor shortcomings are more than made up for by the free wi-fi and cosy courtyard seating area just outside our door.
Luang Prabang sits at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and has a population of around 26,000. We are in the old town which occupies the narrow peninsular of land, 1km by 250m, between the two rivers. This is an area of myriad temples and monks in saffron robes co-existing side-by-side with smart restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, handicraft shops and tour operators offering ridiculously over-priced tours. Fortunately for us, there are still a few places to be found even in the old town that are suitable for travellers on a budget and it is still possible to eat cheaply if you want the authentic Laos experience rather than the westernised equivalent.
The city is a UNESCO world heritage site and this has helped to preserve the historic character of the old town even if a considerable part of it is either newly built albeit using traditional methods and materials. It has also prettied it up with neat pavements and restored buildings with tasteful interiors all designed to appeal and to be enjoyed by foreign tourists. It looks and feels very lovely and it is easy to be seduced by its attractiveness, but has it lost a little bit of its soul in the process? Still there’s no denying the laid back ambience and the stunning location, the attractive mix of French colonial and unique Lao architecture which combine to make this such an appealing place to stay.
A night market fills the main street of the old town in the early evening. Lao from the surrounding villages bring local handicrafts here every night, setting up stalls under red and blue marquees. Silver jewellery, traditional clothing, bags, scarves, bed linen, slippers, sarongs, and much more are all neatly displayed on plastic sheeting on the floor. There must be 100s of stalls lining the pavement and down the centre of the road, and with so many selling similar goods it is a wonder they all can make a living.