On closer acquaintance Colombo is, in parts, a quite attractive city. A jumble of the ultra-modern high rise epitomised by the twin towers of its Trade Centre, faded colonial architecture and ramshackled low-rise chophouses cluttered with cheap signage and moulding concrete facades. Much of the centre, though, has a pleasantly open aspect and not many capital cities can boast the wonderful seafront promenade that is Galle Face Green. Stretching from the old colonial Galle Face Hotel at it’s southern end to the Old Parliament building to the north, this wide strech of lawn and esplanade along the seafront is a favourite with the locals who come to frolic in the waves as they pound onto the beach or to stroll along the front, fly a kite or just indulge in an ice-cream.
Our prime, immediate focus today is to organise our onward travel. We are going to Anuradhapura tomorrow; Sri Lanka’s ancient capital dating back over 2,500 years and the starting point for our tour of the ‘Buddhist Cultural Triangle’. We purchase a couple of train tickets at the station for a mere 4.22 pounds for the four hour journey.
We had hoped today to experience the hustle and bustle of the central market, but only a handful of stalls are open for business and there is a complete dearth of customers,and head for an all-you-can eat establishment near the docks. This cafe occuplies old colonial premises with high ceilings and elegant windows which suggest a former life as an tearoom frequented by an altogether different type of clientele. Today its clean and spacious interior is delightfully airy and a row of at least a dozen tureens sits on the counter promising all manner of delights. A vegetarian meal here is 150 rupees or a mere 84p!
We head back to Mount Lavinia to research and book our accommodation and then once more down to the beach for a light dinner in one of the cafes. We have to settle for a lime soda to wash it down; alcohol is off the menu as it is on every full moon day.