The train to Ella is delayed by an hour so we spend the time standing chatting to a New Zealander and his Japanese partner. We have bought 2nd class tickets for this two-and-a-half hour journey, but hadn’t bargained for just how busy this train was going to be. There are no seats and we find ourselves standing in the unutterably dingy and dirty ‘restaurant’ car. Faced with the prospect of having to stand all the way in these grimey surroundings we upgrade to first class and the shabby comfort of reclining seats; I doubt these carriages have been upgraded since the end of the colonial era.
A Dutch group upgrade just before us and their canny guide gives the guard a backhander and they get away without paying the full fare. We meanwhile are clobbered for the extra fiver! To put this into perspective the two first class fares cost 6.5 pounds!
The mountain scenery between Nurwara Eliya and Ella is really stunning, far more even than our earlier journey from Kandy to Nurwara Eliya. If only we had the same seats!
We are staying at the Hilltop Guest House in Ella which has fabulous views through Ella Gap; on a clear day, which are probably a rare occurence, it is said that is possible to see the lighthouse on the coast. The room has a decent shower with hot water, which is something of a luxury in Sri Lankan guest houses, but the room is slightly damp which a problem which only seems to effect room number 5. The family who run it are very friendly and speak good English. Our room on the ground floor opens onto a shared terrace and a small garden.
Ella is a very small village, which is the only place we have been to so far that seems to have any noticeable tourist infrastructure. Here there are numerouse restaurants and cafes – and even bars selling alcohol – which are aimed specifically at the few tourists who come here. There is nothing much here to draw tourists, which makes it all the touristy side even more strange – a few walks, a couple of waterfalls and temples and tea plantations. Not exactly a major draw. Perhaps it the laid back vibe.