Russia day 12 – Trans-Siberian Yekaterinburg to Irkutz

Left for Irkutz on the 04:30 train.  We are sharing with a Dutch couple, Lynn and Daan.  This will be our home for the next two days and nights.  The train is not quite as modern as the last one but clean and tidy.  In the morning the weather is grey and overcast and rather damp.  The scenery doesn’t change much as we travel – flat with lots of silver birch – until we get to Ormsk after which it  is very bleak.  Surprisingly time passes really quite fast as we chat, eat and visit the restaurant car for a drink  There are several Brits and Irish that congregate there – the Russians don’t seem to use it very much as the prices are relatively expensive and the portions small.  Writing this post also helps pass the time.

The trains on the whole seem to be very efficient and run on time.  The provodnitsa (attendant) changes regularly and oversees the carriage, keeps it clean, checks tickets, locks the toilets as we approach stations and so on.  The compartments are very warm, too warm and stuffy at times, particularly at night.  There are windows in the corridors but they are kept locked and the Russians don’t seem to like fresh air.  However, we brought a key with us!  (All the locks are the triangular kind that you find on meter boxes at home, and having read this before we left we purchased a key).  So we are able to open the windows and also lock our compartment door.  But every so often the provodnitsa comes along and shuts the window – so it has become something of a battle of wills to to keep it open!

Our travelling companions, Lynn and Daan, speak good English. They had joined train in Perm and were asleep  when we boarded – but not for long as we clattered about stowing our luggage under the bottom bunk.

Despite the mad Russian we have been very lucky with our travelling companions so far.  No drunks, snorers or people who stay up drinking into the early hours. Poor Jennifer is not so lucky – she isn’t getting any sleep because of Bryce’s snoring.  Apparently it is so loud that when they were in Yekaterinburg he slept on the balcony and it still kept her awake – so imagine how bad it must be in a small train compartment!  Last night though she managed to find a spare bunk with some Brits.

The compartments on this train are not quite so modern as previously.  Instead of purpose-build beds we are provided with mattress rolls which you spread out on the seats or  top bunks.  Bed linen is provided.  Still comfortable though and we are sleeping well.

We’re officially in Siberia now – Ekterinburg being on the notional border between Europe and Siberia.  The scenery is much the same – mostly flat with trees interspersed with clearings of varying sizes and dotted with villages and small industrial towns.

The journey is punctuated by stops and stations- sometimes only for a few minutes and sometimes for 20 minutes or so.  At the longer stops we can get off the train to stretch our legs, get some fresh air and visit the kiosks and babushkas.  So the platforms get quite busy.  At some of the stations the babuskas are selling local products such as ornate sets of glasses, ornaments and the like.  Who buys the latter on a trip like this, I don’t know, but someone must!

But you have to be careful, because you’re never quite sure how long the train is stopping for and whether it might leave unexpectedly.  So we keep an eye on the provodnitsas who stand by the carriages, and take our signal from them.

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Russia day 11 – Trans-Siberian, Siberian village

Weather overcast and cool.  Today we went to visit a typical Siberian village about two hours drive north-east of Yekaterinburg.  We went with our own personal driver and guide, both of whom spoke good English and were happy to talk to us about life in Russia today compared Soviet era.  Our trip included a visit to the village museum which had been founded by a local man in 1905; a tour of a 300-year-old traditionally build log house; the small, recently built wooden church which replaced the a much grander stone one reduced to ruins during the Soviet era;  the agricultural museum; a performance of Siberian folk  music by local village women; a ride round the village streets on a horse-drawn flat bed carriage; and lunch.  A fascinating day out.

All but a few of the buildings in the village are made of logs in the traditional manner without nails and with corrugated iron roofs.  The latter not original of course, but a later development which has replaced the use of over-lapping wood planks.  The village has a population of about 5,000 although you wouldn’t think so to look at it. The predominant colour is the gray of well-weathered wood, but all the houses are decorated with coloured fretwork round the windows and under the eaves.  The village also boasts a kindergarten and secondary school, several shops and a cottage hospital as well as numerous strategically-placed satellite dishes.   It is a strange mix of a bygone age and the modern day.

The museum contains a collection of items donated by villagers all of which can be traced back to named individuals – clocks, samovars, linen, calendars back to 1947 and so on.  The curator we are told is a very dynamic individual who has done a lot to generate sponsorship for the museum and promote it across the local area. So much so that 18 similar museums have sprung up in villages around the region.  His enthusiasm is clearly evident when he explains the background to some of the more significant exhibits.

This was followed by a ‘tour’ (I use the word loosely) of a 300-year-old one-room wooden house which would have been home to as many as 18 people:  grandparents, their children and their wives, and grandchildren.  It seems inconceivable that such a small house could accommodate so many people harmoniously.  The house is built directly onto the ground – no foundations – and its site was only decided once the position of the well had been determined.  It has to be at least 10 meters from the well.  Once the base of the house is laid out the stove is built.  Only then is the rest of the house completed.

There are ruins of what must have been a beautiful church which was blown up by the Soviets.  Apparently many churches were destroyed in this way during the communist era when religion was out of favour.   Since 2000 many seem to have been rebuilt and this village is hoping to find sponsorship to restore their church.  Maybe Roman Abramovich could help instead of spending money on Chelski – what do think, Dan?

In the meantime, the villagers have recently built a small wooden church over the site of a spring. The latter comes up in a central well in the church itself and the holy water flows out along a trough hewn from  a log and known as the ‘river of love’ because newly-weds traditionally come here to drink the water together.  It then flows on through the communal wash house (no longer used).

Then back to the museum for a performance of folk songs by local women, all of whom are dressed in traditional costume and are accompanied by an accordionist.  The first song seems a bit solemn and wooden and turns out to be some kind of homage to the motherland.  But is soon followed by folk songs that a delivered with passion and humour. For the last song all the foreign guests are invited to get up and take part in a Siberian dance. Not quite what we had bargained for!

Had good, but simple lunch and tried some local brew which was a little like whisky but with are more aromatic flavour.

The day was rounded off by a quick visit to the agricultural museum and a walk down to the river.

On our return to the hotel we discover there is some confusion over our departure date and in fact we are leaving tonight at 3.30 am to catch a train to Irkutz and not tomorrow night as we thought. So we pack up our things and do some food shopping for the jourrney.  Met up with Jennifer and Bryce for dinner at a local restaurant.  It is possible to eat quite cheaply here if you choose the self-service canteen style places, particularly if you are a vegetarian.  My meal only cost £1.50!

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Russia day 10 – Trans-Siberian, Yekaterinburg

Weather cloudy and mild with heavy  rain in the early evening.  Spent the morning walking around the sights of Yekaterinburg with our personal guide Anna, a 20 year-old undergraduate who is doing a 5-year degree in tourism.  Not many sights to see here, so after lunch we spent the afternoon exploring the city centre and picking up a few items of shopping.  Yekaterinburg is an industrial city situated in a mining area and is infamous (in Russia at least) as the place where the Romanov royal family were murdered by the communists in 1918.

Today is our first full day in Yekaterinburg.  Our guide, Anna, spoke very good English but her guiding skills needed a bit of fine tuning as we got the impression she struggled to fill the 3 hours that were allotted to our orientation walking tour.  Although I suspect that there are not a huge number of sights to see here apart from the church that was build seven years ago to commemorate the murder of the royal family, the university, the local government building, main shopping area and a few museums.  We visited one of the latter – the rock museum – which is a collection of crystals, polish stones, fossils and shells and is much more interesting than it sounds.

This is a pleasant city of 1.5m people.  It is clean with  a mix of historic, Soviet and post-Soviet architecture and very wide streets.  It has a huge lake in the very heart of the city created during the time of Peter the Great when the river was dammed to provide  power for the hammers used to extract iron ore.  As in St Petersburg and Moscow there is much work going on to renovate neglected buildings as well as the building of new apartment blocks.

We spent the afternoon wandering around the shopping area picking up a few bits and pieces.  Many shops display goods in glass cabinets labelled with a description and price.  To make a purchase you go the service till and request the item from stock.  Difficult for us without any Russian.  We have had to resort to copying out the description on a piece of paper and handing it to the sales assistant.

We’ve found that Russians don’t often smile when they greet or serve you, which makes them seem unapproachable and morose.  Today we discovered from from our guide, that the reason for this  is that they consider it  foolish to smile without reason.  This may explain some of the blank responses we receive when we smile at people.

Going back to the difficulty of ordering in bars and restaurants (see earlier post) we tried ordering two beers off the Russian menu in a rather trendy bar in St Petersburg.  We found the beer section on the menu and pointed to two different beers – or so we thought.  It wasn’t until the order arrived that we discovered that we had actually ordered one beer and a bowl of peanuts!

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Russia day 9 – Trans-Siberian, Yekaterinburg

Weather mostly cloudy and warm.  By mid afternoon the sun came out.  Spent all day on the train wiling away the time watching the world go by,  playing games, eating and getting to now our travelling companions Bryce (American New Yorker), Jennifer (Canadian) and Sergei (Russian).  Arrived in Yekaterinburg 19:45 local time.  The hotel is an ex-student halls of residence nicely refurbished.  We have a huge room with enclosed balcony.   Had difficulty finding somewhere to eat near the hotel and ended up at a mock British pub called the Rosie Jane!

The train compartment is identical to the the train from St Petersburg to Moscow.  Landscape is  very flat and dotted with small spread out villages made up of rather ramshackled-looking gray wooden houses with steeply sloping corrugated roofs and unmade roads.  After lunch we reached the Urals where the scenery is more dramatic and pine trees predominate.

It’s nice just to be able to relax and pass the time looking at the scenery playing the odd game of Connect and chess and just chatting. Sergei finally woke up this morning and has become quite loquacious – although we have decided he is a little crazy!  He says he is a saxophonist with a wife and little girl and is planning to get a visa to go to work in Korea.  As the day wore on this man began to freak me out and in the end we went to sit with Bryce and Jennifer in their compartment.

The train runs to Moscow time for the whole journey through Russia which I suspect will get confusing given the number of time zones we are travelling through.

The hotel in Yekaterinburg is fairly central, situated on the main street which runs from one side of the city to the other.

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Russia day 8 – Trans-Siberian to Yekaterinburg

Weather overcast but very warm.  Transfer day – spent the morning packing and getting provisions for the first leg of the Trans Siberian train journey: Moscow to Yekaterinburg. Taxi pick up from the hotel at 2pm which was way too early, so we spent an hour-and-a-half standing around the station waiting for our train departing at 16 :08.  Were going to buy some vodka for the journey but nowhere was selling any, we think probably due to it being a national holiday today. How unreal is that – no vodka in Russia! Met up with a Canadian, Jennifer, and her travelling companion, a New Yorker called Bryce who will be going all the way to Beijing with us.

You will notice that I have changed the format of the blog slightly as a result of a request from Matt, who thought the posts were too long and wanted something a bit more concise for those of you who are time constrained.  So as you will see I’ve introduced a introductory summary.  Do feel free to post any feedback.

Today is travelling a day,  so no time for any further sightseeing unfortunately.  We feel we have hardly seen anything.  We didn’t have time to go into the Kremlin or the Armoury (the equivalent of our Crown Jewels) or see the main shopping area plus loads of other sights – we will just have to come back.

We spent the morning packing – each time we repack we try to improve the organisation of our stuff so that it is more manageable and easier to carry.  Now we don’t have any weight restrictions we’ve redistributed the weight which makes my backpack much lighter – great for me, but we still have far too much!  We are putting our hope in natural reduction as we use up things like medicines and anti-mosquito creams etc.

After packing we went to stock up on food for the journey at the local shopping centre, which is situated around the local metro/bus terminus.  That was an interesting experience, since we can’t read the labelling and can only guess the contents of packaged foods from pictures on the labels!

The train departed at 16:08 and we are sharing a four-berth sleeper with two Russians.  A man who speaks some English, but looks a bit spooky and rather morose.  And a woman with no English at all.  The man took to his bunk as soon as the train left the station and has slept ever since.

Our new Canadian/American acquaintances are very friendly and are two compartments down from us.  The woman – who we later learned is called Jennifer – is in the middle of a similar trip to us but is also visiting Nepal and has a NGO internship in Cambodia.  She has been joined in Moscow by Bryce who is just doing the Trans-Siberian to Beijing.  Jennifer is carrying with her ‘Potato’ (think hattie and you’ll get the idea).  Potato is small conch shell with – yes you’ve probably guessed – potato inscribed on it.  There is long story associated with the conch but suffice to say it was given to her by her boyfriend and Potato is the name she wanted to give to her cat but a previous boyfriend wouldn’t let her.  Of course, as you would expect Hattie has met  Potato, and needless to say they got on famously!

So far the train journey has taken us through flat landscape of mainly pine, birch and oak forests. Along the track are picturesque wooden dachas with corrugated roofs where, according the guide book, Muscovites spend their weekends.  Every so often the landscape is punctuated by rather bleak-looking Soviet-style towns of prefabricated gray apartment blocks.

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Russia day 7 – Moscow

Today the weather was hot and sunny about 26 degrees C.  Just the right temperature.

Second, and last full day in Moscow.  Definitely not enough time to see all the main sights and we are extremely tired after almost a week of walking non-stop.  As a result we didn’t  get out until early afternoon. We are looking forward to the Trans-Sib train journey just for a rest!!

We had a picnic lunch in one of the squares and then took a boat trip down the river which takes in many of the sights of Moscow.  Afterwards we went to Gorky Park which is a large amusement park with some white knuckle rides, roller coasters,  a   huge ferris wheel, dodgems, etc and the usual fairground attractions, as well as numerous ice-cream and fast food stalls.  Probably best visited in the evening.

We haven’t been able to get in to Red Square or Lenin’s Mausoleum as both are closed for the duration of our stay in preparation for a public holiday.  How disappointing is that?  The best we could manage was to take a look through the window of one of the shops in the GOM department store which overlooks Red Square.

The GOM department store is a huge shopping arcade that has recently been restored and is the most amazingly beautiful building housing expensive designer outlets as well as some less expensive like Accessorise (again Lulu would love it!).

Yesterday we also went into the Metropol Hotel which has a fantastic Art Nouveau interior.  The glass ceiling in the restaurant is particularly stunning.

For some reason we have found it much more difficult to find our way around Moscow, and of course it is a much larger city than St Petersburg so the sights are more spread out.  We have hardly scratched the surface of what Moscow has to offer and we only have half a day left before we leave for Yekaterinburg.  Two-and-a-half days is just not long enough!!!!

Moscow is a very clean city – there are lots of street cleaners in evidence and litter doesn’t lie around for very long.

The metro is also very impressive – it’s cheap at only 45p for any length of journey, frequent (a train every 90 seconds or so), fast and the longest escalators you’ve ever seen (walking up them is just not an option!).  Although the stations seem to be quite far apart. But it is the interiors of the stations which are so impressive, with marble clad walls, ornate lighting and no signs of the water seepage that you see in the London underground.

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Russia – day 6 – St Petersburg to Moscow

00:05 left St Petersburg for Moscow on the overnight sleeper.  The sleeper appeared to be almost brand new and we had the upper two bunks whilst the bottom two were taken by two Russian women who we thought didn’t speak any English, that is until the next morning as we were coming into Moscow and they started to talk to us.

The compartments are very compact, but despite that there is plenty of space to store all our luggage on a ledge which runs above the corridor ceiling.  The bunks were reasonably comfortable and bed linen, duvets,  pillows and towels are all provided.  We both had a good night’s sleep and were woken by our carriage attendant 40 minutes before our arrival in Moscow at 8am.   The wake-up call was followed by piped radio, presumably to be sure that we wouldn’t go back to sleep.

All the carriages have their own uniformed attendant who stands to attention beside the carriage to welcome you and check your ticket and passport.  The attendant also rides in the carriage for the duration of the journey and ensures everything runs smoothly – not that we saw much of her.

The weather in Moscow is gorgeous – sunny, blue sky, no clouds and around 24-26 degrees C.   That’s more like it!

We were met at the station and taken to the hotel which is a long way out of the centre (7 long stops on the metro as it turned out).  But it is quite interesting to get out into the suburbs rather than be in the centre of town again, it gives another perspective.  The hotel itself is quite austere as are the gray apartment blocks which surround it, but the area itself is quite leafy and we are on a wide street with a central promenade, grass verges and lots of tall silver birch lining  it.

We are quite close to the tube and the local shopping centre where there is huge clothes market at least two supermarkets and lots of small-cabin type shops around the metro station most of which seem to sell magazines, alcohol and fast foods.

In the afternoon we met up with our personal guide who took us into central Moscow and gave us an orientation tour.  We  spent three hours taking in some of the best known sights including the Kremlin, Red Square (closed for an national holiday and much smaller than expected) and KGB headquarters as well as the not so well-known.  Moscow is a much more attractive city than we  expected and like St Petersburg there is a lot of building  work going on both in terms of renovation and new construction.  There has also been a lot of reconstruction of old buildings that were torn down by the Soviets.

Here there are ice-cream sellers every few feet particularly in the parks and squares.  But they are no ordinary ice cream sellers – they also sell hot dogs and beer on tap!  So it is quite common to see people wandering about with a pint of beer in a plastic glass!

Apparently there are 277 fountains in Moscow and we saw a few of them today.  The most unusual are on either side of a footbridge that crosses the Vodootvodny Canal.  On the bridge itself it is a tradition for newlyweds hang a padlock on one of several metal ‘trees’ and then throw the key into  the water. There must be hundreds of locks, all inscribed with the names of the couples who have hung them there.  In fact it is quite common to see wedding parties wandering around various locations having their photos taken whilst  their guests drink champagne.

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Russia – day 5 – St Petersburg

Weather much warmer, mainly overcast, but some sunny periods.

Packed our bags and vacated our room.  Went to Gostiny Dvor to buy a steam iron which we had seen on Sunday and would be perfect for our travels. But although there is a demonstration stand specifically for the model that caught our eye, it turns out that there are none in stock, so we came away empty-handed!

Visited three banks before being able to get any money.  Had a picnic  lunch and then spent the afternoon in The Hermitage.  There are no free museums here, everywhere has an entrance fee and there is a two-tier pricing structure with foreigners being charged significantly more than Russians.

The Hermitage is worth visiting for the interiors alone which are incredibly lavish and ornate.  The state rooms are breath-taking.  The museum is absolutely huge with its collections spread over seven building including the Winter Palace and a wing of the Main Staff which faces it across Palace Square.  We spent three-and-half hours browsing the art collection and trying to dodge all the many coach parties snaking behind their guides, all wearing headphones through which they listened to the guides’ commentary.

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Russia day 4 – St Peterburg

Weather is sunny and much warmer.  Took Hattie with us today and put her to work as a very useful carrier bag, which drew some funny looks!

The first job today was to check out the main line station in readiness for our overnight sleeper to Moscow tomorrow.  The station is very grand and although the departures board is Cryllic script all the trains are individually numbered so it should be easy enough to locate the one we need.  On  the way we bumped into our guide of yesterday – which given the number of people on the streets of St Petersburg was a remarkable coincidence.

Revisited the indoor market to pick up some Georgian cheese which we’ve been told doesn’t need to be refrigerated and lasts for ages – ideal for the Trans Sib.

Spent the rest of the day sight-seeing  including St Nicholas’ and St Issaac’s churches (fabulous panoramic view of the city from the colonnade around the dome of the latter), the Admiralty, Palace Square and the Hermitage (outside only – tomorrow the inside).

We’ve discovered self-service pectopah (restaurant) which has made the problem of ordering food so much easier.  They’re a bit like canteens with all the different dishes on display, so all we have to do is point and pay.  No need for a menu and no speaking required.  Plus the food is reasonable and really good value.  Perfect when you’re on a budget.

After today, we are all walked out!  Legs and feet aching.  We need a rest … but tomorrow its the Hermitage and then on to Moscow.

Sitting writing this in an internet cafe whilst trying our first glass of Russian beer.

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Russia – day 3 – St Petersburg – 1st September 2008

Today sunshine!  But windy and the temperature is still cool to chilly.

Went on a very good 3-and-half-hour guided walk with three Swiss and two Canadians plus a Russian guide who spoke perfect English.  The walk took us away from the main shopping area to places we would never have found otherwise including an alternative arts centre that originated as an artists’ squat and was in the most unprepossessing alleyway behind a very uninviting entrance.  Also the indoor farmers’ market and the houses where Dostoevsky, Tolstoy and Pushkin lived.

In the afternoon we took a boat trip along some of the canals.  The architecture is even more impressive from the canals and it reinforces just what a beautiful city this is.  There is an enormous amount of renovation work going on here at the moment to preserve the buildings.

Cigarettes are incredibly cheap here, we have seen some as cheap as 50p for 20! and there is no tax on alcohol either.  There doesn’t appear to be any parking restrictions – no yellow lines, no parking meters or traffic wardens and many of the traffic lights and pedestrian crossings have displays which countdown the time until the lights next change which is a really good idea.  Public transport is only 30p for a ride on the metro, which is ridiculously cheap compared to the £4 it costs to take a single journey on the London tube these days.

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