Tag Archives: Carnarvon

Australia day 69 – Carnarvon to Shark Bay, WA

We leave Gladstone camping early .Rain is threatening and we have been warne that the 6km unsealed road to the highway becomes impassable, particularly for 2wds, after rain.We stop at a lookout a little further and have breakfast over-looking the ocean. The on to Shark Bay another couple of hours away.  Shark Bay is a World Heritage-listed site with a unique ecological system of stromatolites, sea grasses and a mix of tropical and temperate marine fauna hich make it the most diverse marine environment in Australia if not the world.  Located on the most western point of the continent and protected by two peninsulars, it covers a vast area of 25,000 sq km of prisine bays, lagoons, island and the largest natural harbour between Perth and Broome  Denham, the only town in the area, is a small holiday resort that attracts holiday-makers for a range of activities, from fishing and kayaking to 4wd tours, snorkelling and wildlife spotting… and of course the famous wild dolphins of Monkey Mia which come into shore every day to be fed.  There is an excellent boardwalk at Eagle Bluff on the way into town which affords a superb view of the coastline as well as the crystal clear azue and deep blue waters of the Indian Ocean below.  Apparently it is possible to see sharks and manta rays from the Bluff, but not today.


 

At another lookout further along the coast we get chatting to three girls travelling in a Wicked camper with the intention of doing the journey up to Darwin in 3 weeks.  Bearing in mind that we’ve already spent seven weeks on the road and have about another 800 km, they are going to have their work cut out particularly if they want to stop and see anything!

 

There is some limited free camping just off the coast road as it approaches Denham, for which a permit is necessary and then it is only possible to camp for one night.  So we phone ahead and obtain the permit and find spot just above the dunes with a stunning view of several kilometres of coastline.

Continue reading

Posted in Australia, Western Australia | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Australia day 68 – Carnarvon, WA

The camp ground at New Beach is a bit bleak even in the morning sunlight  and the high tide come  right up to the edge of the camping area – just as well we parked well back otherwise we could have woken to find ourselves stepping out into the sea!   The weather has turned much cooler since we arrived in Carnarvon and the night’s are very chilly; so much so that we have had to take to wearing clothes in bed to keep warm!   It takes several hours after dawn for the ambient temperature to become warm enough to warrant shedding fleeces.  Today the weather is overcast, windy with intermittent showers.  It could be an English summer’s day!  We are beginning to rue having left Coral Bay and warmer climes.  We are debating whether to retrace our steps back north as originally planned in the hope of better weather or continue to head south to Shark Bay and Monkey Mia.  On balance we come to the decision to continue south since we want to see the dophins at Monkey Mia . 


 

Today is Daniel’s 20th birthday, so we are staying in Carnarvon in order to be able to skype him from the local internet cafe. The seven hour time difference means that calling at 3pm wakes Dan at the’ ungodly’ hour of 8am UK time to wish him Happy Birthday.  But he takes it rather stoically. We rough camp Gladstone camping area two hours south just off the coastal highway, 20km south of Wooramel Road House.  This stretch of coastline has several camping bays, a couple of a pit toilets and few campers.

 

 

 

 

Continue reading

Posted in Australia, Western Australia | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Australia day 67 – Carnarvon, WA

Our priority today is to get our Indian visa applications into the post.  It takes ten working days to process an application and we want to be able to pick the visas up in Perth before we take the van  back on 10th June.  Submitting the applications with a few extra days to spare will hopefully ensure we get our passports back before we leave for Bali on 13th June! 


 

The camp ground at Quobba Point is in a gorgeous stop, but the wind makes the sea rather inhospitable.  Huge waves, probably the largest we have seen, are breaking a long way off the beach and rolling in making swimming impossible.  We pack up intending to go into the Carnarvon chemist before the computer ‘whizz’ goes for his lunch at 11.30, but we get chatting to an Aussie parked next to us and then to an English woman and here Australian travelling companion and before we know it an hour has passed and we still haven’t washed or packed anything away!  On the way we stop  at a sheltered lagoon at the other end of the camping area (which stretches  for at least a kilometre along the coastal sand dunes) for a walk along the beach.  This is a perfect spot for snorkelling and sunbathing;  a sheltered sandy beach protected from the huge waves breaking only a couple of hundred yards out to sea by an island reef.  We stop again at the blow holes to watch another fascinating display of nature’s power and bump into the English woman again who, it turns out is from High Wycombe, and another half-an-hour conversation ensues.  

 

Eventually we manage to tear ourselves away and head to town arriving around 2pm  The man in the chemist turns out to be unbelievably helpful;  spending at least half-an-hour working through our photo requirements, consulting the Indian website, taking our photos and manipulating the size and finally trimming the photos to the required dimensions.  For customer service he ranks up there with our experience in the opticians on Koh Samui.  It’s impossible to imagine anyone going to such lenghts in the UK – and only charging £3.80 (£2)!

 

After a late lunch, we compete the visa forms and head to the Post Office.  By this time it’s 4.45 and the post office closes at 5. We need a money order for the fees, a registered envelope and some glue to affix the pictures.  In addition, we must find the telephone number of Andy’s sister in Bomaderry to add to the form as our referee.  It’s becoming a bit of a close call, and no-one in the Post Office seems sure of the number for directory enquiries.  At 5pm Andy’s still in the call box over the  road phoning directory enquiries while I’m in the Post Office, pen poised to add the phone number.  The post is collected 10 minutes after the Post Office closes and the counter clerk waiting to lock up.   At last we have the number and hastily complete the form, collate all the various items into the envelope just in time for the post!  Imagine that happening in the UK?  Not a chance!!  I’ve been turned away /from the Post Office on the stroke of closing even when they are still serving customers inside.

 

We spend the night at New Beach about 30km kilometres south of Carnarvon;  another bit of desolate coastline, flat and scrubby with the sea several hundred yards out from the camp ground.  We arrive in the dark and find that most of the pitches are too sandy to drive onto safely.  There are a few other campers spread across this huge site and we finally park up next to another 2wd who probably aren’t best pleased to have such close neighbours.. 

 

We have become quite adept at setting up kitchen.  There are no cooking facilities in the van itself and the only equipment provided by Wicked is a single ring gas burner, a cool box, some grubby plastic crockery, knives and forks, a pan and and frying pan you wouldn’t cook the dog’s dinner in.  At the outset we invested in another camping stove, a frying pan and other bits and pieces as well as storage boxes for food.  But our kitchen table is improvised using a couple of folding camp stools as legs and one of the boards from bed base in the back of the van.  It works surprisingly well and

 

tonight all is set up and I’ve just started to cook when suddenly the wind changes direction and it starts to rain.  We quickly pack everything away and scramble in the van before it starts to pour.  This is our first wash-out and puts paid to any possibility of cooking an meal tonight.  Instead we huddle round our little internal table and make do with sandwiches followed by peaches and yoghurt!!  Ah, the joys of camping!

 

 

 

Continue reading

Posted in Australia, Western Australia | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Australia day 66 – Coral Bay to Carnarvon

We stopped last night in a large rest area just off the coastal highway which backs onto the Lyndon River.  This morning we notice a 4wd which appears to be stuck in the river bed.  It turns out that three French people decided to take a short cut off the site by crossing the salt flats of the dry river bed, only to find soft clay under the salt crust.  There is not much we can do to help them, but Andy suggests that letting some air out of the tyres might help traction.  They’re not having any of that, after all they have to drive on the road afterwards!  They seem to have little idea about 4wds and don’t seem to know whether they have 4wd engaged.  But given that only one wheel is spinning, probably not.  Nor do they have a tow rope, and neither does a 4wd that stops to assist.  They  manage to flag down another 4wd and we leave them scratching their heads over what seems to be a pretty tricky situation.


 

Verdant Carnarvon is a pleasant and attractive town at the mouth of the Gascoyne River.  A little oasis of  fruit and vegetable farms in the otherwise flat and dry Gascoyne region.  Banana plantations are much in evidence on the way into town.  Fishing is also an important industry here.  Large enough to warrant a local bus service, it has a small shopping mall and a few shops and cafes along the main street as well as the usual amenities:  Post Office, library and visitors centre.  Robinson Street which runs through the shopping area has palm and eucalypt-shaded parking down the centre and palms line the small harbour which is home to a few boats including a yacht and a catamaran.  Palms also line Memorial Avenue, a long road stretching between town and the coastal highway, each with a plaque dedicated to those who lost their lives on HMS Sydney II.

 

It’s windy and, like most of the town we have been through, very quiet.  Our first port of call is the visitors centre to find out where we can get the photos for our Indian visa applications.  Thus starts  what turns out to be a rather prolonged saga..  We’re directed to the Post Office which does photos for passports.  It’s not a booth but an arrangement similar to that used for taking security photos for company passes and at airports.  But this facility produces photos to meet the requirements of the Australian passport office and can’t accommodate the rather unusual specifications set by the Indian embassy.  The Post Office counter clerk sends us the the local chemist, who apparently is a bit of a whizz on the computer and might be able to manipulate our photos to the correct dimensions.  By this time we have established that there isn’t a photographer in Carnarvon.  The man at the chemist is on a day off, but the sales assistant is very helpful and if we can return tomorrow before 3.30pm she will let him know we are coming.  At this point we’re not very confident that this is leading anywhere, but hey we’re here and we might as well exhaust all possibilities.

 

We camp at Quobba Point a 70km drive to the north of Carnarvon where there is a number of shacks and a camping area behind the sand dunes.  Its very windy and the sea is rough and dramatic.  It’s the kind of spot that attracts the grey nomads and Australian families who have taken time out to travel.  A pitch costs $5.50 a night and the only facilities is a pit toilet.  For everything else campers need to be self sufficient, including bringing water supplies.  Many have generators or solar panels and even satellite dishes as well as solar showers. 

 

On the way we stop to watch the blow holes which shoot fountains of spray probably 20 feet into the air.  The swell of the ocean give  rise to huge waves which crashing against the cliffs along this stretch of desolate, windswept coast sending spray soaring into the air.  The sheer raw power of the ocean is mesmerising.  This is a dangerous spot and signs warn ‘King waves kill’  while a plaque commemorates at least one person swept away by the waves.

 

Today we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.  A sign marks the spot on the road between Coral Bay and Carnarvon.

 

 

 

Continue reading

Posted in Australia, Western Australia | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment