Tag Archives: Doubtful Sound

We are booked on an all-day kayaking trip in Doubtful Sound leaving at 7.45 am from Manapouri;   a 20-minutes drive from where we are staying in Te Anau.  We set off around 7am.  It’s pitch black, cold and raining, not the best conditions, we think, for a day’s kayaking and we aren’t reassured by our guide’s insistance that Doubtful Sound is best experienced on a rainy day – more waterfalls!  But as we set off by motor boat across Lake Manapouri we begin to appreciate just how magical these mountains can be in the early morning light as ethereal clouds hang in the valleys, atop the peaks and over the slopes.  Mysterious Lake Manapouri, with over 30 bush-clad islands and framed by the wonderful Cathedral Mountains, is the gateway to Doubtful and Dusky Sounds and this morning, at least,  lives up to it’s reputation as the loveliest of all New Zealand’s many lakes. 

On the far side of the lake, at West Arm, we are kitted out with wet suits, thermals and rain jackets before taking a 20-minute drive over the Wilmot Pass – from where there is a fabulous view looking down into Doubtful Sound – to Deep Cove – the heart of the Sound and the start of our kayak adventure.

Doubtful Sound is the deepest of all the fiords.  Unspoilt and remote, this is a true haven of peace and serenity;  the silence only broken by bird song and the rush of waterfall (and all too frequently the chatter of our guide).  The towering peaks, numerous waterfalls, green islands, ancient rainforest clinging tenuously to the sheer rock faces are truly magnificent.  Kayaking through the Sound is a perfect way to appreciate this very special place and to really experience it up close.  The silence of the  kayaks means that when we come across a lone seal bathing in the water we can watch from a few feet while he seems completely oblivious to our presence.  We’re also come with in a few feet of two yellow-crested penguin standing on the shore of an island completely unperturbed by our presence. 

Sandflies are ever present in the Sounds and can be a real nuisance.  There are 100s of them and only heavy rain seems to deter them.  Liberal use of insect repellent helps, but they still swarm around our heads and when we come to change out of our kayaking gear at the end of the day the sandflies immediately feast on our exposed skin. 

Tree avalanches are another characteristic feature of the alpine scenery.  Trees with only the most tenuous of root systems can be easily dislodged by the heavy rains. One tree can bring down an avalanche of others, leaving a scar on the the mountainside and debris along the waters edge.

And it’s true the Sound is best experienced in the rain!

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