Tag Archives: Fox Glacier

New Zealand South Island day 31 – Fox Glacier

Fox would be an unprepossessing village (population of 258) if it were not for the fact that it is tucked into the rainforest-clad foothills of the Southern Alps and offers stunning views of snow-capped peaks including Mount Cook. It is also the gateway to the Fox Glacier, which at 13 km is the longest glacier in the Westland National Park. It also comes closer to sea level (only 250m above) than any other temperate region glacier in the world and descends through sub-temperate rain forest to boot. It’s other distinguishing feature is the speed at which it travels, covering up to 4 metres a day which is ten times the speed of other valley glaciers around the world. All due to the funnel-like shape of the glacial valley and the huge neve, the snow accumulation area at the top of the glacier. Fox Glacier’s neve is 36 sq k, bigger than the whole of Christchurch city. It’s a miserable morning: grey and raining heavily, but undeterred, we book onto a guided walk on the glacier leaving at 2.30pm . We are kitted out with rain gear and the heaviest and most uncomfortable walking boots imaginable. After a short coach journey in an old Bedford bus we start our trek with a gentle walk up the glacial river valley over moraine left behind when the glacier retreated to it’s present position. Huge boulders are strewn everywhere as well as massive chunks of ice which are the remains of a recent collapse of the terminal face shedding 60 tonnes of ice. Water, made milky grey with ground rock, gushes from the base of the glacier to form a fast-flowing river. As we get up close to the terminal face it starts to hit home just how massive this glacier is – reaching a height of 2,800m it dwarfs structures such as the Eiffel Tower. The terminal face is far too high to attempt to climb and we make away up through the rain forest alongside the glacier to a more accessible point where we can climb onto the ice quite easily. The climb through the forest involves 700 steps and negotiating some rather narrow cliff-side paths and sheer drops. We don crampons and with ice poles for extra stability we follow in our guides foot-steps as he cuts out steps up and onto the top of the glacier. It’s quite an incredible experience – stepping over crevasses climbing over the hilly terrain; and the view from the terminal face down the valley is superb. All the while melt water is making it’s way down through deep holes and crevasses. Had our first conference call using Skype involving Mum, Val and Peter – quite easy to set up but we couldn’t always maintain a clear connection. As a new convert to Skype – this was his first call – Peter was most impressed to be able to not only conference call but also speak to us in New Zealand. Continue reading

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New Zealand South Island day 30 – Te Anau to Fox Glacier

Saturday, 7th March, New Zealand South Island day 30 – Te Anau to Fox Glacier


 

Today is a driving day.  We are making the 480km journey from Te Anau to Fox up the west coast to see the glacier.  The west coast of the South Island stretches 600 km from north to south and is only 70 km at its widest point.  It’s a kaleidoscope of changing scenery – alpine, beech forest, high country grassland, merino sheep, deer, tussocks,  dark mountains providing an ever-present backdrop, deep gullies, hills dappled with sunlight, cloud shadows drifting across the landscape, patches of dense green forest, far-reaching vistas and winding roads.  Intermittant rain creating impromtu roadside waterfalls are a frequent distraction.  The road follows of the shores  of  lake Wanaka an Hawea and we stop several times to admire the most amazing views of the lakes and surrounding mountains.  Clouds hang low and dark whilst rays of sunlight break through to illuminate the waters and create pools of bright blue. Further on, passed Haast, at Bruce Bay the road runs along the coast for a while there are impressive vistas of the crashing surf of the Tasman Sea.  There is a bike race in progress and as the cyclists pass us we can hardly begin to wonder at their fortitude and unimaginable stamina in tackling the inclement weather and the impossible gradients.  We stop at the Salmon Cafe, seemingly situated in the middle of nowhere, for a break and coffee and chocolate and the most melt-in-your-mouth cheese scone ever.  It never ceases to amaze how these little out-of-the-way places manage to survive on what  seems like minimal passing trade.

 

Word of the day heard on a local radio station:  Chillax  – to relax and chill

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