Tag Archives: Spring Creek

The scenery along the Savannah Way between Spring Creek and Mary River is more diverse.  The usual flat savannah landscape gives way to undulating countryside with magnificent ranges in the distance east and west, changing to a landscape of of boulders some precariously balanced some looking like huge piles of rubble, and then flat expanses with little vegetation apart from mounds of spinifex grass and the occasional bush breaking up areas of bare red-brown earth. Then the golden yellows, reds and greens of the savannah landscape, which dominates this part of the world, reappear. 

We stop for a while in Hall’s Creek and drop in to the visitor’s centre.  We are in the heart of Aboriginal country although it’s the  whitefellas who seem to run the businesses and man the information centre.  We have wander round and come across a the civic noticeboard.  The Anzac Day Parade and service was held at 5.45 am this morning – which makes getting up for the 11am Remembrance Day Service seem like a walk in the park by comparison!  The timing is determined by the hour of the landings at Gallipoli during the First World War where 8000 Australian and New Zealanders lost their lives.  There are some interesting community notices – residents are only allowed two dogs per household and the authorities come and inspect everyone’s home to ensure they comply.  Contravention of the dangerous dog laws can result in a fine of up to $4000 (£2000)!

There is not much in town to keep us here; a few shops, a couple of roadhouses.  It’s very quiet.   We take a detour 45 kms along the unsealed Duncan Road south-east of town to two tranquil swimming holes at Palm Springs and Sawpit Gorge.  Along the way we stop at China Wall, a  6m high wall of quartz protruding out of the ground – the longest single fault of its type in the world.  There is no-one else here apart from two wallabies who hurriedly hop away.  

Palm Springs isn’t so tranquil;  there are already four or five 4wd parties here and more come along after us, making this small out-of-the-way spot very crowded.  The irony of it!  How deep into the outback do you have to go to get away from other people, we wonder?.  We were assured categorically by the man at the visitors centre that both these ‘swimming’ holes are safe – no crocs.  We are just about to don our swimming gear and join the throng when a local pulls up to warn everyone that she has seen ‘freshies’ in the area and there ought to be a sign  to warn people that it’s not safe to swim. Ah, well, no swimming for us today;  we are destined to remain hot and dusty.  And it looks so inviting nestled against a rocky outcrop in the shade of the surrounding trees. We are beginning to learn that information is variable out here;  as varied as the people who provide it. Who to believe?  

A few kilometres further on is Sawpit Gorge which is also a lovely shaded spot in.  A deep pool is all that remains of the river that runs here in the Wet..  There is a group of Aborigines picnic-ing and kids enjoying jumping from the gorge-side into the water below.  Idyllic, but we don’t linger long, too cowardly or sensible to swim! 

The camp ground at Mary River covers a large, shady area back from the river bank approached across a long causeway which we suspect is submerged in the Wet.  But today the shrunken river occupies only about a quarter of the river bed.  This is a delightful spot, and, as we’ve come to expect, there are several others here before us.  There is a glorious sunset over the river;  the sky is streaked with deep pinks and purplish blues and as the light fades a huge flock of the white parrots so common here, take flight along the course of the river, screeching raucously as they go.

Dust, it gets everywhere!  It is one of the main drawbacks of travelling on dirt roads, particularly in an old van with door seals well passed their sell-by date.  The rear sills are thick with dust and all the inside of the van is covered in a fine layer:  the bedding, the cooking utensils, the sink, every nook and cranny… 

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