Tag Archives: Te Anau

New Zealand South Island day 30 – Te Anau to Fox Glacier

Saturday, 7th March, New Zealand South Island day 30 – Te Anau to Fox Glacier


 

Today is a driving day.  We are making the 480km journey from Te Anau to Fox up the west coast to see the glacier.  The west coast of the South Island stretches 600 km from north to south and is only 70 km at its widest point.  It’s a kaleidoscope of changing scenery – alpine, beech forest, high country grassland, merino sheep, deer, tussocks,  dark mountains providing an ever-present backdrop, deep gullies, hills dappled with sunlight, cloud shadows drifting across the landscape, patches of dense green forest, far-reaching vistas and winding roads.  Intermittant rain creating impromtu roadside waterfalls are a frequent distraction.  The road follows of the shores  of  lake Wanaka an Hawea and we stop several times to admire the most amazing views of the lakes and surrounding mountains.  Clouds hang low and dark whilst rays of sunlight break through to illuminate the waters and create pools of bright blue. Further on, passed Haast, at Bruce Bay the road runs along the coast for a while there are impressive vistas of the crashing surf of the Tasman Sea.  There is a bike race in progress and as the cyclists pass us we can hardly begin to wonder at their fortitude and unimaginable stamina in tackling the inclement weather and the impossible gradients.  We stop at the Salmon Cafe, seemingly situated in the middle of nowhere, for a break and coffee and chocolate and the most melt-in-your-mouth cheese scone ever.  It never ceases to amaze how these little out-of-the-way places manage to survive on what  seems like minimal passing trade.

 

Word of the day heard on a local radio station:  Chillax  – to relax and chill

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New Zealand South Island day 27 – Dunedin to Te Anau

 


 

We have a long drive ahead of us today – from Dunedin along the west coast and up to Te Anau in Fiordland on the west side of the island.  A trip of about 425 km and there is lots to see on the way as we take the coastal route between Dunedin and Invercargill which meanders through the Catlins   – an area of rolling hills, sheep, native forests and rocky bays which stretches from Kaka Point in the north to Fortrose in the south.  Our first stop is at Nugget Point a dramatic outcrop jutting into the sea with a short coastal walk with far-reaching views up and down the coast.  In fact at one point it is so narrow it’s possible to look down on sea on either side of the path.  At the end of the point there is a colony of seals and sea lions basking on the rocks.  The weather is gloriously sunny and warm – without a cloud in the sky.  It’s just a pleasure to look out over the several small rocky islets that extend from the point and are encircled by the white rings of surf as the sea gently breaks around them. Long strands of kelp – it thrives in these coastal waters – is pulled back and forth in the gentle swell. 

 

Our next stop is Jack’s Blow Hole   followed by lunch on the edge of the beach at Jack’s Bay.  Jack’s Blow Hole is a 30-minute walk from Jack’s Bay over farmland and cliff tops.  The views from the cliffs are magnificent, but the blow hole is disappointing, though no doubt it is much more dramatic when the sea is wilder.  The blow hole itself is a huge gash in a farmer’s field about 200 metres from the sea.  A small viewing platform gives a partial view through the surrounding bush of the sea crashing in below. 

 

Further along the coast we stop at Florence Hill lookout for a stunning view of Tautuku beach before motoring on to Slope Point, the southern most point of the South Island.  This is not at all the bleak landscape you might imagine – quite the contrary it is full of spectacular views of rolling hills and here and there clumps of windswept trees, their windward sides grey and lifeless, their leeward side green and alive.

 

Our last stop is Te Waewae Bay – an impressively long beach littered with driftwood.   A mist of sea spray hanging above the breakers.  It is 150 km from here to Te Anau and we must kick on if we are to get there by early evening.  As we head north from Invercargill we start to see glimpses of the peaks of Fiordland in the distance.  As we approach Te Anau rolling grasslands give way to rugged, snow-capped peaks and deep glacial valleys.  Te Anau itself is situated in the most stunning setting set against a backdrop of mountains on the edge of Te Anau lake – the largest in the South Island and the second largest in New Zealand after lake Taupo.  The town is immaculately manicured, but  remarkably soulless despite it’s beautiful setting.  It is mainly hotels,  motels, B&Bs and holiday parks serving the huge influx of tourists that come here for the trips to Milford Sound and the tramping, kayaking and other activities that abound in the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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